The second one, though (to the furthest left in the photo), could be either from the 1950s or the 1960s because its liquid is such a dark brown, even if it’s not syrupy as molasses like my mother’s bottle. Until I read your blog I had no idea what a Marly horse bottle was, nor that it was Baccarat crystal. Actually, after reading the post, I bought an umbrella flacon on eBay Germany with the code beginning with PA 0151 BL which—if I read “Raiders of the Lost Scent” correctly—should or at least could be from 1976. Fazit: Dieser orientalische Duft besticht mit hoher Komplexität und opulenter Dekadenz. You say it’s not a factice or display bottle, but filled with a actual perfume inside? When I smell the fragrance from afar on the scent trail, it wafts amber in the background but, up close, it’s barely evident. If you like perfume you should smell this at least once, it’s very famous and for many years was considered the “gold standard” of perfume. But no matter what type of Shalimar you want, nothing will ever change my firm belief that, on an olfactory basis, older is better. It’s hardly an unpleasant thing but, for me, personally, it’s not as appealing, interesting, inviting, or complex as the one in the older parfums. Die kommen auch gut... Nun ja, ich denke dieses Parfüm war zur damaligen Zeit ein fantastischer Duft und roch sicherlich auch völlig anders als jetzt. It also hits the perfect balance between masculine and feminine notes. After that, it smelt the way it was supposed to, but that was the sole instance of a vintage bottle not being the exact way that it was supposed to. Not long after, it dissolves into simple powdey, ambery, vanillic sweetness. No, it was not even remotely as glorious. For me, it veers between being beautiful and a very restful, serene, and sometimes happy scent. I bought a bottle of Shalimar a few years ago and ended up returning it because it didn’t smell like my memory. AA Winter Delice. My sister had walked in to find a vast array of old perfume bottles received from the estate of a woman who had recently passed away. Sometimes, the rose acted as the leather’s main companion, sometimes it was the musks, though both were replaced much later on by the jasmine. “1967” was simply the year in which Guerlain filed its copyright papers, and that legal protection can span up to 20 years. Choosing something on the basis of its possible date is one thing and very understandable, but concern about a fragrance’s storage is just holding you back, imo. I don’t know what the return address is on the message, but you can email me at: AKafkaesqueLife @ gmail dot com. It seemed more like an eau de parfum than a pure parfum, even without comparison to the older bottles. “I stood for a full 15 mins in the bathroom. I did everything. Shalimar Eau de Toilette by Guerlain is a Oriental fragrance for women. Just one word; salivating! In fact, I’d argue that the utterly ghastly travesty of modern Shalimar combined with the ubiquity of the many, many fragrances that have modeled themselves on Shalimar have made most of us — me included — forget the sheer magnificence and exceptionalism of the original in its vintage form, and particularly in parfum concentration. And slightly off topic-I received 4 mms of Jicky perfume last friday. Still, like my mother’s bottle, the notes dance in the air, sinuous, lithe, radiant, deep, and rich — except these ones purr and growl as well. Never. Its aroma, balance of notes, weight, strength, overall vibe, and the colour of its juice skews midway between the more floral, less leathery aromas of my mother’s 1950s bottle and the 1970s parfum that I owned originally, except its richer and heavier than the latter. Ja, vor einigen Jahren wurde die Zusammensetzung von Guerlain so verändert, vergünstigt, daß dieser wundervolle Duft nicht mehr so lange anhaftet. You veered between utter bewilderment and horror. It changes like a kaleidoscope for hours on end, each note crystal clear but flowing one into another like ripples on a lake. Thankfully, there are a number of resources available that help you to navigate this minefield, that I used myself, and that I really recommend. Had I smelt it blindly and without knowing the concentration, I would have guessed it was an eau de parfum. I would say all three, but your comment about your husband and your wonderful, long marriage (knock on wood, knock on head) outweighs them all. My mother’s 1950s Marly Horse bottle of vintage Shalimar opens on my skin with a thick torrent of glittering rubied roses that are heady, sweet, practically beefy, and chewy. But you know that... unless you tried the EDP and got the burned rubber note that starts (I am pretty sure it is the initial entrance of the... About reviewer (58 reviews) Age56 & Over it was like nothing that I’ve ever encountered, before or since, and I actually owned several different types of vintage Shalimar beforehand, including a 45 year-old parfum from the 1970s that I rushed to smell when I got home. It became a skin scent about 5.75 hours into its development. And it was worth the hunt. Right: vintage 1984 Shalimar Parfum de Toilette, a stronger concentration. Thank you for this wonderful discussion of one of my favorite scents. If you want I can e mail you pictures because I can take them quickly for you to see just send me a private e mail, I also have one other bottle It’s the exact same problem with the amber, too. Haltbarkeit und Sillage sind überdurchschnittlich. The central accord is flecked by a sliver of the delicious bergamot mousse and a small drop of syrupy floralcy, then enveloped within a warm, slightly leathery, golden muskiness. After that, it follows the same path laid out by the other versions that I’ve described. The vanilla grows fractionally stronger as well. Inspired by the love story between the Emperor Shah Jahan and Princess Mumtaz Mahal, Shalimar is the perfume of love and oriental power. For 4 oz, Baccarat crystal, purple box, 75% full with brown liquid, and only $102, the answer is “Pffffft, not one bit!”). Far left and left, 2 oz 1960s (?) Damals war solch ein Parfüm sehr teuer und nicht jeder konnte sich einen atemberaubenden Duft zulegen. So, depending on your personal tastes, note preferences, needs, purposes, and the weight or heaviness of the fragrances that you’re accustomed to, a lighter version of Shalimar may actually suit you much better than a parfum. The long, detailed reviews are always so interesting to read, even when I don’t think I’d enjoy the perfumes. I was extremely lucky in finding two old Marly Horse Baccarat crystal parfum bottles for a good price and in sizes far larger than the tiny Marly ones in the measly 1/4, 1/3, or 1/2 oz sizes that are so commonly found on eBay for about $90. The two citruses combine together to give the sort of tart intensity that one finds with lime, and with Key Lime pies in particular. Certainly not me. According to Wikipedia, it was originally released in 1921, then “re-released in 1925, by Jacques Guerlain in a bottle designed by Raymond Guerlain and made by Cristalleries de Baccarat (bottle design # 597) and launched at the Decorative Arts Exhibition as an antidote to The Great Depression.” The inspiration for the scent was the love story between the great Mughal Emperor, Shah Jahan, and his wife, Mumtaz Mahal, for whom he built both the Taj Mahal and the Garden of Shalimar in Lahore, Pakistan. Do you not find the olfactory and raw material differences present with the current EDP to be noteworthy? I’m sure there are plenty of olfactory reasons why — like, the powderiness, the datedness, the heaviness, the less unisex character of the composition, the somewhat paradoxical polarity between fluff, light, dark, and occasionally ominous shadows — not to mention the alleged “melancholy” that so many perceive in the scent. Vintage Shalimar parfum, probably 1960s, in 2 oz Baccarat crystal bottle with its Marly Horse velvet box. I had to really dig my nose into my arm to detect it by the 8th hour. Juice colour certainly matters, though, and is one significant or helpful factor to consider. We have to think of some way around this, Yinghao. I would have expected it to be the reverse since, usually, older fragrances may be more rounded but they’re also blurrier at the edges, their notes having condensed over time to fuse together and to thereby lose much of their vivacity, brightness, and individual delineation. It makes me long for my 1960’s bottle that somehow went missing during my move several decades ago. It’s the sort of scent that radiates with such boldness and richness that, once again, I felt as though I could practically see waves of notes concretely and visibly pulsating out in the air. You’re spoiling us with this excellent in-depth focus on Shalimar. Every so often i trip across an affordable one but like now, the seller wont or cant respond about the actual age of the bottle…. While browsing eBay one day, my eye was caught by a chic travel atomiser of Shalimar parfum. First, welcome to the blog, Sam in London. The cumulative effect is a fragrance that smells like a Bergamot and Key Lime pie which has been lightly drizzled with a few squirts of jasmine syrupy and smoky, slightly boozy vanilla, then placed atop a musky, leather-suede-woody base. Far right, 3/4 oz 1970s bottle. To my surprise, quite a few of the notes feel blurry, a haze of citrusy floral leather, muskiness, sourness, sweetness, and smokiness. I cannot thank you enough for this fantastic post! So, only one single airline flew from Germany where I was studying to Windhoek: South African Airlines. Anyway, I’m really looking forward to part two! And the Guerlain workshop sounds very interesting! There are so many Shalimar clones out there, so many repetitions of its famous refrains, that the original has lost its impact. Guerlain provided the blogger and Guerlain expert, Monsieur Guerlain, with the note list for the original Shalimar. It feels almost raw, in addition to being sharper, crisper, and greener. It seemed to mesmerize everyone who came into contact with it, including my father, a man who loves fougères and citrusy fresh fragrances, and who does not normally gravitate towards the Oriental or Floral Oriental genre. In 2010 or so, I went to a department store and, just on a whim, I sprayed a bottle of Shalimar on my arm just to see what changes had ensued. In fact, I’m not being hyperbolic when I say that I’ve smelt nothing as magnificent, as dizzying, staggering, euphoria-inducing, and, yes, I will say it, almost orgasmic as a bottle of 1950s (I think) Marly Horse Shalimar parfum in the flocked velvet box that my mother bought a few months ago. My suggestion would be to look at the Guerlain Perfumes blogspot article on bottle designs for information on the more unusual bottles. The “1960s” vintage Shalimar parfum opens on my skin with bergamot that smells like a richer, darker, and denser version of the scent found in Earl Grey tea. I cannot remember the real scent; however, ever since, Shalimar has had this mythical olfactory sensation to my mind. At the same time, the resins slowly began to seep up from the base, deepening the bouquet further, Photo: Bruchinha on Flickr. It’s Thanksgiving here in Canada, and its raining up a storm! My parents lived in Namibia which (like South Africa at that time) was boycotted during the early 80’s. I have such a backlog Kafka to read I thought you were slowing down? According to his wonderfully detailed post on the creation and composition of the scent, it has: bergamot, lemon, jasmine, rose, orris, opopanax [sweet myrrh], tonka bean, birch tar, patchouli, incense, vetiver, civet, castoreum, vanilla, musks. The fragrance eventually dies away as nothing more than golden sweetness. My ex’s grandmother had a never opened bottle of Shalimar, in the Marly bottle, recieved from a former lover in the early 60s. Egal - wer,wenn nicht diese Schönheit hat meine ersten Worte hier verdient...Also (räusper) : Ich hatte diesen Duft schon vor Jahrzehnten ausprobiert - und war bitter enttäuscht.Ob von mir oder dem Parfum... Orientalische Parfums liegen mir in der Regel nicht besonders. Everything. I bet your mother’s 1954 bottle was a beauty! But the fact that your bottle has a black spray pump is quite unusual. I wouldn’t even call it a secondary note. Unlike so many other fragrances, I think that the parfum only gets better as it gets older, turning into a masterpiece with few equals. As someone who is bizarrely sensitive to some aromachemicals, I always read your reviews before I sample things. In total, it lasted just shy of 10.25 hours. Wer weiß. Then they changed it. 1980s vintage Shalimar doesn’t develop much more beyond this point. I still have my mom’s 1954 box and empty bottle of Shalimar that was gifted to her by a perfumista aunt who bought all the best there was to offer in the 40’s and 50’s when my mom was a tot to and adolescent….I can still smell that intoxicating aroma even though the bottle is safely stored away at my dad’s house. I wondered what all the fuss was about. Hell, I’m writing the words and cringing at how ridiculous it all sounds, but that bottle… that bottle…. There is such majesty and splendour to the bouquet, its visuals, and its individual parts that, whenever I smell my mother’s bottle, it always makes me think of tsarist palaces, the ballrooms of War & Peace, and the Imperial Romanov court. It is being marketed by LVMH. The fragrance’s colour was a dark mahogany colour rather than the fine, burnished cognac hues of my bottles, the liquid was so thick that it was almost as syrupy as molasses, and the scent… the scent… I’m not sure I have the words to actually describe it, but it was like a drug. More overtly animalic than the current brew. I later found out (from you, I believe) that its formula had been redone- to its ruin. And I forgot to say that yes, my hubby is a keeper. Wonderful writing. I may be mixing up my eBay country bans, lol, but I recall thinking how very frustrating that must be for perfumistas there. If you’re a Shalimar “vintage virgin,” my hope is that, between these two parts, you’ll find a bottle that will be perfect for your tastes. I recoiled and took several steps back in horror, so much so that I accidentally bumped into a lady behind me. So we have to light the candles, and let them burn all day, wear cozy slippers, and read, watch tv, eat leftovers…and talk of Shalimar! It turns out that my mother had bought a huge, almost full 2 oz. This is according to Raiders of the Lost Scent‘s new Guide to Guerlain Stickers which covers the company’s vintage base stickers across the decades. (Spellt the regular way. Awww, I’m so glad the post proved to be helpful and useful. Well, this turned out long and rambling. So, we’re back to square one and to the need to date things in order to find the oldest possible bottles. And you won’t know what you’re getting until you smell it. I still don’t know if that was a good enough decision on my part. You wouldn’t experience those treasures and riches at all, I’m sad to say. Bruno Paolo Benedetti Art, “Orange Shades,” at absolutearts.com (Direct website link embedded within.). However, if I had to choose one bottle that it resembled most in terms of its scent and notes, then I think it skews closer towards the my mother’s 1950s one than to either the 1960s/1950s bottle or any of my 1970s ones. Revolutionär ist die Verwendung von Balsamico-Noten hier. According to Guerlain, Shalimarwas inspired by a love story of Shah Jahan and his wife, Mumtaz Majal. (Direct website link embedded within.). It’s very heavy, and there’s a lot going on with the notes. So guess what she had for me? Beim ersten Testen war ich fast ein wenig enttäuscht: zu rauchig, zu... Wie oft habe ich versucht, diesen Duft in Worte zu fassen, ihn zu beschreiben. The scent lasted forever when worn, and made me as well as the cat feel transported. Bruno Paolo Benedetti Artwork, “Orange Shades,” at absolutearts.com (Direct website link embedded within.). Ich habe mich über verschiedene Versionen informiert. Have you never been tempted to open your bottle and wear it? I’m so glad, and I hope you find the perfect bottle! Oh, my. Thank you for the welcome. I don’t know if I’m confusing my countries or what I read in passing a while back, but didn’t LVMH do something similar in Germany as well? (I remain traumatized by a 2010 bottle that I smelt, and I doubt I’ll get over any time soon.). Guerlain Shalimar Perfume: Review of a Fragrance Classic It’s one of the all-time greats of 20th-century perfumery and is still the benchmark for oriental fragrances – hence our Shalimar perfume review. Almost all of us are familiar with the basic gist of Shalimar’s olfactory composition, but the parfum or extrait is exceptional, and The Marly Horse bottles in particular. THE BASICS – SHALIMAR’S HISTORY, DEVELOPMENT & NOTES: Monsieur Guerlain photo and image. Shalimar by Guerlain: Perfume Review / Fragrance Review - YouTube. That’s 1,500 mls and must be a foot high, possibly even taller. I specialise in scent analysis. “uuuh oooh” would have been my reaction, too, Marion! One thing that I’m curious about: you say the current EDP is basically your signature scent, but have you not been tempted to go for vintage formulations rather than modern ones, particularly given the impact of the vintage fragrance on you? If you’re located in Paris, I believe Guerlain offers one day workshops that give one the opportunity to smell their vault of vintages in 50-year form, so perhaps that is an option? Citrus top notes can evaporate or, in some instances, turn wonky over a long period of time — even if someone keeps their bottle perfectly. It seems like only Shalimar has the power to entice this lurker out of the shadows – the last time I commented was when you reviewed the Mexique flanker. Actually, it would be a perfect fit for the famously debonair and handsome screen icon, Gary Cooper, in his white-tie tuxedo. It mystifies with it's beauty and transports you to far off lands with it's opulent decadence. And, no, your response to vintage Shalimar doesn’t sound at all “over the top” to me. I laughed at how you described the modern Shalimar as “pledge” — that may be too generous a description. That’s why it’s my responsibility to give this Guerlain Shalimar Review a proper in-depth love letter. Roughly 90 minutes in, the vanilla arrives and instantly transforms the bergamot/citrus blend into something smoother, creamier, softer, and more rounded in feel. Jacques Guerlain was inspired to create Shalimar by the story of Indian Emperor, Shah Jahan, who created a beautiful garden (called Shalimar) to please his queen. You just need to shrug off the restraints you’ve imposed on yourself by worrying about bottles that “sat above someone’s kitchen sink in a sunny window.” , Short story (which could be called Heure Bleue but isn’t). In my opinion, and for me, personally, age is the single most important factor in deciding which bottle of Shalimar to buy, no matter what the concentration. I don’t know how or if I can post a picture but you’re welcome to contact me at my email address, and I’m happy to send one if you don’t mind helping me. I remember sitting quite awed at the bull-eye with one or two other people sniffing something magnificent and—for Namibian standards—rather decadent while the sun was rising and the coast of Africa came into sight… Shalimar (Eau de Parfum) is a popular perfume by Guerlain for women and was released in 1986. (Much more on that next time in Part II of this post.). The scent itself is supposed to be esu de parfumerie natural spray. They were so godawful that they actually put me off Shalimar for a while. The 1980s parfum had much lower numbers for longevity, sillage, and projection than the older bottles, even though I was spraying, not dabbing, and atomization usually extends the reach or power of a scent. Again, dating the really old bottles of vintage Shalimar often involves a lot of guesswork, but I doubt that either of my 2 oz bottles are as old as my mother’s. I’ll give you the scent description of the other, possibly mid-1970s one. Now that modern political correctness has made fur-wearing taboo for so many, even the ultra-wealthy, SHALIMAR has had to take on another complexion, I daresay. I have which the seller claimed was from the 60s/70s. One thing is certain, though, I feel surprisingly protective towards poor L’Heure Bleue, the “Jan Brady” and frequently overlooked, dismissed or forgotten sister in the Shalimar, Mitsouko, L’Heure Bleue trio. The scent itself was strong at first, but it was surprisingly light in weight and body from start to finish. With three tiny, light smears, the 1950s vintage Shalimar opened with 3-4 inches of projection and about 5 to 6 inches of sillage which soon grew to about 10-11 inches after 30 minutes. A dry, dusty, slightly withered rose takes its place as a prominent layer within the leather. They were both in beautiful bottles in the purplish velvet cases. Shalimar Reviews. Give him kudos from me for his thoughtfulness and taste. On the other hand, the rawness of the bergamot is typical of “younger” fragrances. With the internet I realised the horrors of reformulation and set about getting vintages of all concentrations of my beloveds…Mitz, L H Bl, and S. I remember getting my bottle of Sh perfume, there were none of the little stickers or that little label that sits in its little niche….I enquired when I won it on eBay whether it might be around somewhere, and she said, oh no, I kept it on a glass shelf in the bathroom and all the labels came off from the steam…..uuuh oooh I thought. I was going to die which would have been more merciful than imagining throttling a defenseless little old lady. The 50 oz one interests me. Aber ausschließlich positiv.... Das ursprüngliche Shalimar-Parfüm wurde 1921 von Jacques Guerlain entworfen, inspiriert von Mumtaz Mahal (der Name bedeutet "Juwel des Palastes"), der Frau von Shah Jahan, Mogulkaiser von Indien. I shall await Part II with bated breath. Hope you find what you’re looking for. Sign me up, please! When it comes to things pre-1976, dating is an extremely inexact science that is full of guesswork based on circumstantial evidence, and I’m certainly not a dating expert, but I’ll do my best to provide a few tips. I took it out today to confirm that’s what I have. The longevity, sillage, and projection numbers were very good given the small amount that I applied. Neither bottle smells as opulent, intense, and heavy as my mother’s, but the possibly 1950s/1960s one is particularly different in its bouquet, notes, and focus during in its first few hours. Perfume rating 4.27 out of 5 with 1,855 votes. Thank you again. If someone out there can help, you’re welcome to release my email address to them. I think something like the EDT would suit you and your personal style, not being too heavy so it wouldn’t wear you instead of you wearing it. Especially reading about some of these ‘old school’ perfumes that are flashbacks from my Mother’s dressing table. I have never seen another and I am not able to find it even online It sounds to me as though we need to get you a sample of vintage Shalimar to create a current olfactory memory to go along with the mental one of that plane ride. Photo: my own. It simply becomes more abstract, the notes turning into a blur of powdery, ambered vanilla laced with smoke, tonka, benzoin, and faint, whispery traces of sandalwood. My mother, now 75, has sometimes reminded me that, in Midcentury, fine fragrance was a real luxury on a par with furs and diamonds for most people… by no means the sort of fun, thoughtless, everyday thing it has become for most Americans, the way we’ll frequently switch out our fragrances on a daily basis; no, in those days, a woman often chose ONE fragrance and stayed with it her entire life. Hello my dear, I am still here….happened to see your post on Shalimar and could not resist a quick comment. Left: 2 oz 1960s Baccarat crystal Marly vintage Shalimar parfum. I just read your post on Shalimar and am truly amazed how this scent triggers so many fond and emotional memories with a lot of people, many of them saying they’re plus 50. Photo: my own. This is the perfume I’ve been wearing the past few months (after searching high and low for a new fragrance for two years) and it is beyond incredible. If you want to be clinical about it, the perfume was created in 1925 by Jacques Guerlain, in time when the “scent of Orient” began spreading through Western Europe. It’s a nice, pretty, but bland powdery amber vanilla with some minimal elements of smoke, woods, and floral sweetness. Then I got sidetracked by you! day. The fragrance gets better and better as it develops. Curlicues of civet and a highly woody myrrh festoon the leather’s edges, while a slew of resins dominated by smoky styrax snake around under it. Photo: my own. I also have a very old bottle octagon shaped as well in the velvet box. Nothing wrong with that , at all! For all its sophistication, the bouquet is not an aloof or haughty one but so warm that it invites you in, beckoning with fingers of vanilla and amber, tantalizing you with a bared shoulder that is naked, musky, and heated. I’ll definitely have time to do a few in January 2017, though! It's very thin and the color of the box is almost black instead of blue. It is in the box as well as inside the velvet box as well So what was it that put this one bottle on a whole other solar plane of olfactory existence? By the time my mother went to the shop, there wasn’t much left but she found a few treasures including a Marly Horse Baccarat crystal bottle of Shalimar. I’ve never seen it as melancholy, sad, or blue. As my relationship with her grandson came to a quick end, the last time I was over I seriously considered pilfering the bottle. My parents later told me that that small amount had such a powerful aroma that it filled the house for as long as four or five days. When the 4th hour rolls around, the bergamot replaces the leather as a main note on central stage, but the vanilla is even more significant and becomes the real focal point of the scent. Who could resist a dab of vintage extrait after reading it? I’m hardly an expert in dating vintage Shalimar, but they are. I remember well your reaction to the modern Shalimar that you bought. Roses? Particularly so in the lower concentrations. It is an umbrella type bottle with a gold top with a black spray pump with beautiful scrolling on the top. Far left, possibly 1950s/1960s Marly Baccarat crystal vintage Shalimar parfum in a 2 oz size. I’d like to take you down the rabbit-hole with me in this post and its subsequent Parts II and III. She really doesn’t like heavy perfumes and it’s not her style, but the bottle holds memories and is a nice decorative piece in the bathroom. In the background, there is an occasional pop of sweet myrrh, but it’s heavily muffled by the main rose-bergamot accord. Then it becomes almost the best thing I have ever experienced. Can’t find anywhere and no label or box! Wow. Ein... Zu Shalimar ist schon viel gesagt worden, doch auch ich muss nun meinen Senf dazugeben, denn ich bin diesem Duft verfallen. Reading some of your recent posts, I was thinking about how i wanted to try a vintage Shalimar. If you want to be clinical about it, the perfume was created in 1925 by Jacques Guerlain, in time when the “scent of Orient” began spreading through Western Europe. At the end of the 8th hour and start of the 9th, there is only an ambery vanilla laced with wisps of smoke.
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